The tuxedo - the complete guide
If you have an upcoming event in your calendar where you want to be a standout dashing guest, there’s one ensemble that immediately comes to mind: the tuxedo. You just can’t go past it when you’re looking for a black tie outfit that exudes panache.
“In a tuxedo I’m a star. In regular clothes, I’m a nobody.
”
If the tuxedo is entering a new golden era, it’s probably about time. We’re all ready for a dash (or a downpour) of sophistication.
From casual dinner jacket to formal tuxedo
The tuxedo may seem like the ultimate badge of elegance these days, but it didn’t start like that. It was a prince that put it on the map, but only because he needed a more casual alternative to his very formal dinner tailcoat. That ‘casual’ alternative? The tuxedo itself.
How did the prince’s Saville Row tailor (Prince Edward VII was the prince in question) come up with the design? Simple, he needed something in between the formality of the tailcoat and the casualness of the lounge suit. So he kept the satin trimmings, scrapped the tail and called it a ‘dinner’ or smoking jacket. For the tuxedo purists, that first 1865 jacket was blue silk with matching pants.
American James Brown Potter, a Hudson Valley millionaire, happened to see the prince wearing the ensemble on a visit to the UK and he immediately had one commissioned for himself. He wore his new jacket to the Autumn Ball of a private country club in Tuxedo Park, New York. And the rest is history.
By the early 20th century, the tuxedo also shed its ‘casual’ badge and was accepted in formal situations. In the 1930s, tuxedos were all the rage, the midnight blue one in particular. Variations started appearing though: the double-breasted jacket and the white jacket in warmer climates standouts.
These days, the tuxedo is the go-to for all formal events where you want to strike the elegance note: red carpet, balls, galas, and yes, of course, your very own wedding.
Fun fact: the ‘smoking’ in the ‘smoking jacket’ came from the added benefit of protecting gentlemen’s jackets from ash when smoking: the cigarette ash was likely to slide down the satin and off the jacket. No damage.
What makes a tuxedo…a tuxedo?
Single breasted black tuxedos with shawl lapels
Tuxedos come in many styles and colours, but there are a few elements that give it the definition of tuxedo. And that’s all in the silk satin trimmings: the contrast silk lapel more prominently. Often, tuxedos also have silk buttons and silk trousers stripes.
Outside of these details, there is a world of choices when it comes to designing your perfect tuxedo.
Let’s start with the jacket lapels, because that’s a very visible feature and one that sets the tone of your whole ensemble. You have a few options to consider:
Shawl lapel
The word ‘shawl’ might bring up images of ample feminine shoulder garments, but in jacket lapels, it refers to the curved or squared shape of the collar. It’s fair to say you won’t see a shawl collar on any other jacket but a very formal one. Good choice if you want to bust through the sea of sameness.
Peak lapel
It’s called peak because it peaks upwards, standing out from the collar. Tailoring-wise, this is a feat and it takes a fair bit of craftsmanship to get right. Style-wise, it’s a question of preference, but with that proudly standing ‘v’ edge, you could argue that there is an added sharpness to it. It also has the benefit of making you look taller and slimmer – and how minds that?
Peak silk lapel on black jacket
With each of these styles, you can choose shiny black satin or a matte silk ribbed grosgrain option. Whichever you go with, the same fabric will be used to cover the buttons, the jet pockets and the trouser braid, if you choose to have one.
After lapels, there are a couple of other considerations to make when you choose your jacket style: is it going to be single breasted or double-breasted? This might be a question of style preference and what suits your body shape best.
Tuxedo colours
White tuxedo jacket with black trousers
hat very first royal tuxedo may have been midnight blue, but there’s so much more choice beyond blue when it comes to a tuxedo. White dinner jackets have first become popular in warmer climates, but they are now a red-carpet staple.
Black and midnight navy remain your go-to for quintessential tuxedo colours - you’re winning with either of those.
And if you’re really game for taking it that extra level, there’s a lot more choice then black, blue or white for you. Think tartan or gingham, bright or pastel colours, unique patterns. The only thing to remember is to know the dress code: enter the room in perfect harmony with the occasion and stand out for all the right reasons.
Another fun fact: The dark blue of the early tuxedos appeared blacker than black did in that glow of early electric lighting.
The cloth
Like with most elegant suiting, wool is the number one choice for tuxedos. Sure, it’s breathable and durable like nothing else, but it also drapes beautifully and gives you that distinguished polished look.
Or you could make for a calculated bold move and pick velvet for your tuxedo jacket. You might want to consider that for when the weather gets colder, not so much in the summer months. Velvet has that added benefit that you can mix it with a roll neck and gabardine trousers and step out to non-black tie events and look dashing.
If you’re needing a tuxedo for a middle-of-the-summer event, you might also want to consider silk. One thing to be aware of is that silk lacks the weight, hence the body and drape of wool, but you can get away with it if you’re going for cream or another light colour. Another summer option is a wool and mohair cloth, which may not sound very cool, but it’s breathable and light and n excellent option.
Tuxedo pants
You’ll know tuxedo pants from regular suit pants because of the stripe (or braid) over the side seam. The fabric of the stripe matches the label - satin. On top of that, you might also have a matching satin waistband and your pants should be hammed for no-break, aka just above the shoe. These days, many gentlemen opt to leave the braid out and have the jacket represent the tuxedo style. The choice is yours.
Unlike modern trousers, often cut to sit low, tuxedo trousers should sit at your natural waist. This feature lengthens the visual leg line. The great thing is that with a pair of bespoke trousers, they will be cut to sit perfectly on your waist and not pull at the crotch, so whatever other accessories you might choose, they won’t be absolutely necessary, but rather a style choice
Pleats or no pleats? It’s all up to you. Whether you prefer the elegant draped pleats or the smooth flat front, it’s a question of style and comfort. You should know though that pleats allow for more comfort and are more forgiving than the flat fronts, which demand flat stomachs.
So, there you are, a quick guide through the first tuxedo decisions you’ll need to make. But there’s more. There’s a whole array of accessories you’ll need to take into account. We’ll cover that into our next piece.
